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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.